Dog & Cat Behavior Questions

I recommend fabric collars and sometimes fabric martingales. I also use 6 ft. single layer 5/8” nylon leashes (look like ¾”). Treat bags, which are usually hiking guide bags or small sling packs; front-clip harnesses for pullers, standard body harnesses, and elasticized leashes, such as the Sof-touch leash by Will Campbell. I use great rewards, usually food, praise, baby-talk, play, toys and games, running, and massage. Poop bags come in handy too.

As early as you possibly can, providing your puppy is old enough to walk and play. Your puppy can learn instantly through rewards and kind training. Keep training sessions brief, easy, and fun. Incorporate training and teaching into your life as opposed to having one or two long, drawn-out training sessions.

The use of pinch, choke, and shock collars does not teach your dog how to listen to you. The dog responds to the pain associated with the collar, or the “jerk” or “yank” on the leash. This does little to make your dog want to learn, and it makes your dog less attentive to you. Learning through the use of reward and play is far more effective, and enhances your dog’s learning abilities. In addition, choke collars and severe yanking on the leash can cause tracheal damage and spinal injuries, which are often unnoticed unless the dog is x-rayed or autopsied. Read the UK APDT’s leaflet against choke chains. Choke Chain Leaflet. Pinch, prong, and spiked collars (a metal - sometimes rubber or plastic - collar with prongs that dig into a dog’s neck) are painful, especially if a person yanks the leash or if the dog lunges. Bruising regularly occurs, as can bleeding. Since the dog is covered with fur, this bruising goes unnoticed. In addition, yanking on a dog does not teach the dog how to look to you for guidance or how to trust you. Read Prong Collars: What’s wrong with them? The use of prong, spiked, and pinch collars exacerbates aggression and makes reactive dogs more reactive. They are unnecessary. Shock collars use electricity to shock your dog. Some trainers call them remote collars, e collars, or electronic collars disguising what they do. The dog associates the shock with the person who shocks him or her which damages the trust between the dog and that person. If I used an electric current to shock somebody into learning math or to teach them how to cook, it wouldn't be very pleasant or productive — especially for the learners. Shocking a dog to sit, to come, or to stay by a person's side is equally offensive. The use of these collars intensifies fear and aggression, makes problem behaviors worse, damages the relationship between people and dogs, and makes anxious dogs more fearful and nervous.

The word “No” provides your dog with no instruction. It does not teach your dog what you would like him or her to do. It is reactive, not proactive. The word in itself is meaningless unless it conveys disapproval through your voice and mannerisms. In this way, if it works it simply frightens your dog, and your dog may temporarily inhibit his or her behavior. However, if your dog is not taught another way of behaving or taught a new behavior in a positive manner, the unwanted behavior will often continue, or will occur in your absence. A “No” should be used as an interruption only; to stop a behavior in mid-action, so that before your dog can complete the unwanted behavior, he or she can be redirected to a more appropriate one. It is much more effective to teach wanted behaviors early on, and to prevent and avoid creating behavioral problems, than it is to reprimand your dog for doing things you dislike. Read Harmful and Ineffective Training Techniques

Group classes focus on teaching your dog to be attentive to you during distractions, and socializing your dog to people and other dogs.  Private lessons enhance your skills and techniques when working with your dog, and provide you and your dog with one-on-one attention and instruction. Private lessons also address behaviors that may be specific to certain situations or locations, such as jumping on guests when they visit, barking at you while you are on the phone, or jumping and grabbing food off of counters.

I do not use the clicker for teaching the basics or for beginners. There is a learning curve for people when using a clicker. The clicker is a little noise maker which is associated with a food treat. People often use it incorrectly. They stop focusing on their dog, and instead, focus on the clicker. In addition, it can be harmful if used incorrectly. The clicker can mark a behavior your dog exhibits that you like, so can your voice, body-language, and good timing in delivering food and other rewards. The clicker can quicken the speed of learning when teaching your dog a complex task. The clicker is best used by people who are experienced with positive training. It is not good to put the clicker in a home with small children or with childish adults. People tend not to juggle a leash, food treats, or clicker well when having to work all three simultaneously.

The crate is a choice, not a necessity. It should be used as a temporary management tool only. If you use the crate, your dog should have voluntary access to the crate when he or she wants it. Forcing your dog to use a crate is not equivalent to crate training. Cage confinement should not be a way of life for your dog, and the crate should be large enough for your dog to stretch, lie down comfortably, and turn around.

I have seen dogs become comfortable with a crate when it is given to them as a choice. I have also seen dogs use it when they are stressed or frightened. For these dogs it is an escape, similar to a child hiding under the bed or in a closet when frightened. I have seen dogs bite to avoid being put in a crate, and I have seen people chase their dogs to put them into crates as their dogs run away from them in fear. I personally recommend using baby gates or ex-pen panels (a type of indoor fencing) to temporarily confine dogs. Although the crate may be popular, it is a cage. Any animal kept in a cage for too long will have emotional and physical problems. A dog should not be kept in a cage for longer than three hours at a time. Unfortunately, many people keep their dogs in crates all day while they are at work, and then again at night when they go to sleep. This means some dogs spend 15 to 18 hours per day in a cage. If people spent more time exercising their dogs instead of crating them, there would be happier dogs and healthier people, and less canine behavioral problems.

No. I teach people to work with their dogs first to resolve barking issues. I do not use shock collars or sound aversion collars, nor do I recommend them. If a dog owner needs assistance in addition to training lessons, I recommend the citronella anti-bark collar by Premier. These collars mist citronella when a dog barks. It is used as a deterrent and is much more humane than shocking dogs or using sound aversion.

I sometimes use head halters for resolving aggression so that a person can prevent a dog from biting. For pulling, I recommend personal lessons and/or front clip body harnesses, such as the Sense-ation Harness or Wonder-Walker. If those harnesses don’t work, I use head-halters, with the ultimate goal of teaching people how to work with their dogs so they no longer need to use them.

No. Your dog learns according to the setting, context, or environment in which he or she performs the behaviors. Your dog also behaves around you in a certain way according to your behavior. In other words, dogs learn according to the environment in which you teach them and according to whom they are learning from. Since your dog lives with you, you should understand how to teach your dog in a positive way. Sending your dog away does not teach your dog how to live with you, nor does it teach you how to teach, interact with, or understand your dog.

Yes, absolutely! Some dogs love kitties and prefer their companionship. Other dogs need management and training to be around cats. I provide lessons on how to acclimate dogs and cats to each other and to teach them to be friendly to each other. There is no need for your kitty to be relegated to the basement or a spare bedroom. If you have a dog who is not good with cats, management, prevention, and supervision are your best approaches.

Rescue! Adopt an animal from a shelter. Approximately 30,000 dogs and cats, including puppies and kittens, are killed daily in shelters because they are unwanted. Animals in shelters are adopted or killed. In "no kill" shelters, they can languish for months or even years until they are adopted — if they ever are. Puppy mills are breeding factories usually promoting sales of purebred dogs or mixed breed "designer" dogs over the internet or in pet stores. These dogs are then “registered” with the AKC. Puppy mills and large volume breeders keep animals in horrible conditions. Dogs used for breeding are terribly neglected and are forced to churn out puppies (and kittens, if a large scale cattery). They are kept 24 hours a day in cages and kennels. The puppies are poorly kept and tend not to be socialized, especially if they remain too long in kennels or pet stores. A breeding facility will not advertise as a "puppy mill." A large-scale breeder or puppy mill will advertise as a "breeder," "kennel," or “farm.” Visit www.PetFinder.com to find animals in need of adoption.

Food that does not contain by-products, corn meal, rendered animal protein or digest, artificial colors, or flavors. Avoid processed dog treats, such as "pup-pepperoni snacks" or multi-colored cat treats. For dogs, fruits or vegetables, such as blueberries, peas, apples and carrots, or whole grains, such as brown rice and oats are good. Higher quality packaged dog and cat food will not have corn-based fillers. Corn meal is a potent allergen for dogs and cats. Some people home-prepare their dog's and cat's meals and feed their animals natural whole and raw food diets. Animals fed such diets tend to be very healthy. Make sure to feed puppies three full meals per day. Do not leave them hungry. Feed kittens and cats ad libitum. Wet food for cats prevents urinary infections.

Be kind to your dogs. Exercise your dogs. Let your dogs sniff on walks! If you have energetic dogs, speed up your walks. Appreciate your dogs and notice and reward your dogs for performing behaviors you like. Do not bully your dogs or jerk them on the leash. Don’t use pinch, choke, or shock collars. Set your dogs up to be successful, reward them, and manage problems early on, instead of creating problems or trying to undo problems you may have created.

Be considerate and kind to your cats. Get larger litter pans. Use clumping, unscented cat litter (either sandy clay type litters or Swheat Scoop). Clean your cat's litter boxes at least twice daily, if not three to four times a day. A clean box makes for happy cats and happy people. Freshen litter every few days. Separate food and water bowls. Cats prefer to eat and drink in different locations. Play with your cats. Sleep with your cats. Invite your cats to join you when you have polite guests or company over, and keep your cats safe. The bonding between you and your kitty is up to you. Your cat should feel a part of your life.

Massage can calm animals and reassure them. It can teach an animal to bond with people and to trust human touch. Dogs who are fearful, anxious and/or reactive are very influenced by how we touch them. Puppies and active energetic dogs can relax and calm down by professional massage techniques, such as effleurage, compressive stroking, and the "laying on of hands." Cats benefit too, and can love massage. Shy and fearful kitties love human attention when touched in a kind and thoughtful manner. I have a massage technique that kittens love called the “Tommies Technique.” It was developed by my cat.